Camino XXXIV: Prayers in the Mist

Albergue de Peregrinos, Castroverde. 16.50.

Less than a week remains. I’ve been on the road for well over a month now. Thirty-six days, to be precise. Thirty-six days of the same morning routine, which I shall try to relate below.

Wake up at 4.45am. Sometimes an hour later. Pack away my sleeping bag and charger and scan the area to make sure I don’t leave anything behind. Go to the door and check for the essentials: passport, wallet, phone, sticks. Set out by 6am at the latest and have some kind of breakfast as I go: a Nakd blueberry bar, a Bolycao or a flat peach.

Some days I stop for breakfast. Some days I stop for a breather. And some days I don’t stop at all. Today was one of those days. Apart from a five minute pause in the shade, I walked pretty much without a break from A Fonsagrada to Castroverde – nearly forty kilometres over hill and fell.

But I always make a brief stop when I reach a church or sanctuary – or, failing that, a cross in the wilderness. Prayer is an important part of my Camino, as it’s one of the few times I really feel connected to my faith.

I pray for the dead: for my grandfather José and my great-grandparents, Mateo and Mercedes; and I pray for David, the father of a dear friend who passed away earlier this year, in honour of a promise I made.

I pray for the living: for my companions along the road, and for the communities through which I have passed, as is often the request in some of the smaller and more devoted villages along the Camino. I usually add an intention for somebody or something different every day: the Italian girl too ill to go on, an inspirational teacher who came to mind during the walk, or someone I crossed verbal swords with at some stage or another.

Finally, for myself, I ask only that my steps be guided to Her, wherever She may be – the woman who will love me as much as I love her. She’s proving rather difficult to find, but prayers can be good for the soul, even if they don’t always deliver.


It is easily to be contemplative along the Camino de Santiago. So many hours alone on the road, with nothing but the songs of birds and the whistling of the wind in the trees above. I’ve had the familiar company of the characters from the Lord of the Rings for the last four days, but that saga ended shortly before I reached O Cádavo and I needed silence for the last two hours after that.

The timing was apt. The last third of The Return of the King is all about saying goodbye. Today I said goodbye to the mountains, crossing Montouto – the last of the high sierras on the Primitivo – shortly before eight o’clock. My feet will be thankful, but I shall miss the awesome beauty of being up among the clouds in the early hours of the morning. There is a silent magic in the mountains, colossi of stone that have watched the world grow around them since time immemorial. The Camino is an ancient road, but the land is older still, and the Primitivo takes you through some of the best of it.


I wonder if it’s the silent prayers that are answered more readily than the spoken ones? I have never prayed for good fortune with the wild things along the Camino, or on any of my adventures for that matter, and yet I have had such luck this year: nightjars, otters, vultures, wolves and that magnificent lynx. Some of it you could chalk up to practice, knowledge and stealth, or even just luck, but I like to think it’s earned somehow. Despite the heartbreaks I have had, I still tend to go into relationships with my heart wide open – and that has always been the case in my relationship with nature.

Watching the ocean of clouds roll across the valley and through the trees was enough to lift my spirits this morning. I forgot to say thank you in my prayers then, so I shall tonight. It isn’t every day you get to see such beauty, and we should always be grateful for such things.


In a month’s time, I shall be back at my desk. Planning lessons. Responding to emails and Teams messages. Worrying about this or that task that needed doing yesterday. I have been able to shut myself off from it all on the Camino – in fact, I’ve hardly given it much thought until today. What a beautiful panacea the Camino is!


I met an old friend in Castroverde today: Teodor, a Romanian pilgrim who I had dinner with in Monreal, now all of four weeks ago. I didn’t recognise him at first, but he recognised me. Curiously, he’d heard talk of me on the road a few days prior. How is beyond my guessing, as I’ve done several double days, so whoever it is who had met me has obviously been racing ahead. The Camino can be like that: a one-thousand kilometre long bubble.

I went to the local pool with him and the small group of young men in his train, but I didn’t have dinner with them. Teodor and the Danish doctor among them made for fascinating conversation, but the others were more interested in smoking and talking about how many ‘b*tches’ they could have been ‘doing’ on the Camino between awkward attempts to get the waitress to linger. I’m not a big fan of rakish behaviour, so I politely excused myself and had dinner back at the albergue.

Tomorrow I make for Lugo. It’s only twenty kilometres or so, so it’s a really light day, but my feet might forgive me the release after two forty kilometre stints back to back. I do want to get to Santiago with functioning feet, after all. BB x

Searching for God

I’m not a Christian. At least, not in the truest sense of the word. Insofar as my upbringing is concerned, I guess I don’t fall under any category other than Church of England, but when the occasional questionnaire gets handed my way, I tick the box marked ‘agnostic’ without a second’s thought. Only if that’s not an option, and it usually is, Christianity gets my vote over the ‘no religion’ box. Why does this matter? Because today I found myself, once again, in a position where it made more sense to come down on one side of the fence. ‘Christian’ simply makes a lot more sense than ‘no religion’. Strong words for a not-so strong belief, don’t you think?

Let me explain (you’d better get comfortable). I was baptised as a Christian. Church of England. Standard fare. I had a fairly regular English upbringing. I attended a Church of England primary school. I went to church every Christmas and Easter, like almost everyone else. The only minor difference was that my parents both had various musical roles in their respective churches, which meant that I probably spent more time in church than most kids my age. It just so happened that one of them was Canterbury Cathedral, where my dad was a lay-clerk. I guess you get a little blasé about that kind of thing when evensong is a biweekly venture. Not to mention all the school carol services held there. It certainly made the local church back home seem a little small by comparison, though I have warmer memories of that. When I was little I went to church every other Sunday, or at least when Mum played the organ. The memories get a little fuzzy sometimes; this is reaching quite a way back into my childhood. I remember only that I used to sit behind the choir near the organ pipes, and you could hear the organ humming long after everyone had filed out of church and Mum took her hands off the keys. Between that and the old gas heater glowing a dim red in the corner, I have this musty image of your run-of-the-mill Church of England parish tucked away in my head. That’s my strongest memory of the early days, at least. Nothing particularly special. I wasn’t even old enough to sit in the choir then, but I knew most of the hymns well enough, especially the ones they used to roll out on the projector at school. Morning has Broken, for one.

Fast-forward on a few years and it gets a little more interesting. Moving back to England from a year abroad in Spain finds me singing in the church choir in my new home town. It’s nothing more than something to do, I suppose, as I have little else to do at the weekends but go birdwatching down at Stodmarsh or Sandwich Bay – I’m still too young to be thinking about girls or going out – but it pays my first wages, and it feels ‘sort of right’. Right enough to take that next C of E step and decide to get ‘confirmed’. It’s not as big a deal as it is over in Spain, with the sailor suits and all the bells and whistles that go with it, but like I said, it seemed like ‘the right thing to do’. And the other kids in the choir were a lovely bunch, too.

Then along comes my early teenage years, a girlfriend and the beginning of a new approach: evangelicalism. She got me into it, I suppose, but it was something I took to with relish. Prayer and worship, spiritual healing, speaking in tongues… It was a brand new world and I loved every second of it. Ever heard of Soul Survivor? That kind of thing. It was a far cry from ‘open your hymn-books to Hymn no. 348‘ or what-have-you, at the very least. I might even go so far as to say that, for a little while, I even believed it. But it was the people that really made it for me, not the spiritual side of it. Just like playing the violin, the practising of which I had come to loathe, it was more the sense of community that went with it that I craved: the orchestra over the recital, and the worship group over the prayers. I guess you could say I built my house on the sand. Little wonder, then, that it all came crashing down with the end of that relationship. Coincidentally, it was raining that night, too.

I wandered for a while. I asked a lot of questions. I even stopped saying prayers at night, realising that most of them had been selfish anyway – especially the later ones. If not selfish, then love-blind at the very least. Eventually I returned, somewhat shame-faced, to my local church youth group, whom I’d abandoned for almost a year and a half. That was where I met Seth and Jenny Cooper, the Walmer Parish, and Katherine, that everlasting beacon, who showed me that there was more to life than a constant search for answers. For a little while longer, I continued to carry the flag, stronger than before. I was happy. But it was not to last. A series of unfortunate events came as the second hammer blow to my faith. I started to read about the Empire, and all the horrors that had been wrought in the name of God. My brother was assaulted on the way home from school. And Katherine, ever the kindling flame, went out of my life. A few weeks later, I gave up altogether.

As a true Christian, that was my final chapter. I had another fling with the Church in Uganda – ain’t no party like an African Baptist Prayer and Worship Party – but that was little more than a dalliance. Back in England, on the gap year that seemed like it would never end, faith eluded me. Mum, on the other hand, found her way to the Catholic Church and embarked upon what she has described as the ‘road her whole life had been leading towards’. I coveted that, I suppose. It wasn’t her new-found happiness of hers that I wanted, but that contented state of mind. Structured. Ordered. At peace. At one. Something that I’ve struggled with in all the hypocrisies of my life for the last seven years. Her faith gave her life a new meaning. I’d been looking for that meaning for a while with no such luck. People say that ‘finding yourself’ is the first step on the road to that level of understanding. If I could have ‘found myself in Africa’ as so many jokingly think I did, I’d probably have more of an idea as to where exactly I am right now. Unfortunately – or perhaps fortunately, as God knows how lost I’d have been – I didn’t, and the search continues. Right up until last night, when I found myself sitting in an Iraqi church, listening to a Californian preacher explaining the meaning of John 3:16 whilst a translator conveyed it to the congregation in Arabic. Talk about a new way of looking at things!

Now we come to the heart of the matter. I’m not a Christian, like I said at the start. I might have been once, but for a token gesture or two of late, I’m not labelling material at the moment. I can go through the motions like a mynah bird, of course, but that’s got more to do with habit and observation than anything else. That, and a burning desire to believe, whenever that day comes. Until it does, everything seems false. To pray to a God you don’t believe in with all of your heart, with all of your soul – does that not seem a bit ingenuous? That’s not to say I’m not religious, though. Given the choice I’d rather be spiritual than to disbelieve entirely. I’ll put it this way: there’s a hole in my heart that’s waiting for faith. I just haven’t found it yet.

I’ve had this discussion/argument with Andrew recently. I put it to him that I’d be happier not knowing all the answers; that sometimes it’s better to stop asking questions and to have a little faith in what you can’t see; that some things, like as not, are necessarily beyond our understanding. It goes against a great deal of my character, and I think he took umbrage at that, but it’s a principle I try to stick to, and as far as I’m concerned it’s connected to the most fundamental principle of all: hope. I swear by it. There is no greater sin in my book than despair. I might not have the staying power that others prize – indeed, if something is beyond my capability (or, more often, interest) I’m more likely than not to throw up my arms and walk away – but I never truly give up on the inside. And as long as that’s the case, I’d like to believe I still have a chance.

Faith lies somewhere along the road, of that much I’m sure. Wherever it may be is, for the time being, beyond my understanding. And that’s not a bad thing. I tried to find it out here, but for all the strength of the community and the goodwill of the people, it continues to elude me. Maybe I’m being picky. Maybe I’m looking too hard. I don’t know. I’ve just got to keep trying.

I leave you (and this gargantuan post, which is approaching essay length as the clock strikes twenty minutes to midnight) with the only Bible verse I’ve consigned to heart, as it speaks to me on much the same level as it ever did five years ago, when first I found it:

The light shines in the darkness, and the darkness has not overcome it.
John 1:5

I wonder whatever happened to Katherine? I hope her light is still shining brightly for the rest of the world, wherever she is. BB x