Albergue de Peregrinos, Castroverde. 16.50.
Less than a week remains. I’ve been on the road for well over a month now. Thirty-six days, to be precise. Thirty-six days of the same morning routine, which I shall try to relate below.
Wake up at 4.45am. Sometimes an hour later. Pack away my sleeping bag and charger and scan the area to make sure I don’t leave anything behind. Go to the door and check for the essentials: passport, wallet, phone, sticks. Set out by 6am at the latest and have some kind of breakfast as I go: a Nakd blueberry bar, a Bolycao or a flat peach.
Some days I stop for breakfast. Some days I stop for a breather. And some days I don’t stop at all. Today was one of those days. Apart from a five minute pause in the shade, I walked pretty much without a break from A Fonsagrada to Castroverde – nearly forty kilometres over hill and fell.
But I always make a brief stop when I reach a church or sanctuary – or, failing that, a cross in the wilderness. Prayer is an important part of my Camino, as it’s one of the few times I really feel connected to my faith.
I pray for the dead: for my grandfather José and my great-grandparents, Mateo and Mercedes; and I pray for David, the father of a dear friend who passed away earlier this year, in honour of a promise I made.
I pray for the living: for my companions along the road, and for the communities through which I have passed, as is often the request in some of the smaller and more devoted villages along the Camino. I usually add an intention for somebody or something different every day: the Italian girl too ill to go on, an inspirational teacher who came to mind during the walk, or someone I crossed verbal swords with at some stage or another.
Finally, for myself, I ask only that my steps be guided to Her, wherever She may be – the woman who will love me as much as I love her. She’s proving rather difficult to find, but prayers can be good for the soul, even if they don’t always deliver.

It is easily to be contemplative along the Camino de Santiago. So many hours alone on the road, with nothing but the songs of birds and the whistling of the wind in the trees above. I’ve had the familiar company of the characters from the Lord of the Rings for the last four days, but that saga ended shortly before I reached O Cádavo and I needed silence for the last two hours after that.
The timing was apt. The last third of The Return of the King is all about saying goodbye. Today I said goodbye to the mountains, crossing Montouto – the last of the high sierras on the Primitivo – shortly before eight o’clock. My feet will be thankful, but I shall miss the awesome beauty of being up among the clouds in the early hours of the morning. There is a silent magic in the mountains, colossi of stone that have watched the world grow around them since time immemorial. The Camino is an ancient road, but the land is older still, and the Primitivo takes you through some of the best of it.

I wonder if it’s the silent prayers that are answered more readily than the spoken ones? I have never prayed for good fortune with the wild things along the Camino, or on any of my adventures for that matter, and yet I have had such luck this year: nightjars, otters, vultures, wolves and that magnificent lynx. Some of it you could chalk up to practice, knowledge and stealth, or even just luck, but I like to think it’s earned somehow. Despite the heartbreaks I have had, I still tend to go into relationships with my heart wide open – and that has always been the case in my relationship with nature.
Watching the ocean of clouds roll across the valley and through the trees was enough to lift my spirits this morning. I forgot to say thank you in my prayers then, so I shall tonight. It isn’t every day you get to see such beauty, and we should always be grateful for such things.

In a month’s time, I shall be back at my desk. Planning lessons. Responding to emails and Teams messages. Worrying about this or that task that needed doing yesterday. I have been able to shut myself off from it all on the Camino – in fact, I’ve hardly given it much thought until today. What a beautiful panacea the Camino is!

I met an old friend in Castroverde today: Teodor, a Romanian pilgrim who I had dinner with in Monreal, now all of four weeks ago. I didn’t recognise him at first, but he recognised me. Curiously, he’d heard talk of me on the road a few days prior. How is beyond my guessing, as I’ve done several double days, so whoever it is who had met me has obviously been racing ahead. The Camino can be like that: a one-thousand kilometre long bubble.
I went to the local pool with him and the small group of young men in his train, but I didn’t have dinner with them. Teodor and the Danish doctor among them made for fascinating conversation, but the others were more interested in smoking and talking about how many ‘b*tches’ they could have been ‘doing’ on the Camino between awkward attempts to get the waitress to linger. I’m not a big fan of rakish behaviour, so I politely excused myself and had dinner back at the albergue.
Tomorrow I make for Lugo. It’s only twenty kilometres or so, so it’s a really light day, but my feet might forgive me the release after two forty kilometre stints back to back. I do want to get to Santiago with functioning feet, after all. BB x