Camino XVIII: Exodus

Albergue El Alfar de Rosalía, Hornillos del Camino. 20.03.

I was up at 4am this morning, probably due to the racket put up by the Koreans snoring next door. In any event, they were up and about with headlamps on by five and, since I couldn’t get back to sleep, I figured I’d get ready for the day, too.

It was as well that I did so. I had to intervene with a frantic Spanish woman in her fifties who was weeping into her phone with frustration because she couldn’t find the emergency exit that would allow her to leave the albergue before the main doors opened at 6.30am. I calmly pointed out the stairwell and a minor outflow of five or six similarly lost pilgrims followed suit, including Gust, the young Belgian lad we encountered in Grañón, and Lur, an enigmatic Basque girl with raven-black hair who has hardly said a word but who has been a feature of the Camino since Puente La Reina.


We said farewell to Alex after a last breakfast together outside the albergue and set off just after seven o’clock. Burgos’ Cathedral looked as magnificent as ever in the morning light, its twin towers visible for nearly four hours on the horizon after we left the city.


Leaving the city of Burgos is almost as laborious as entering it, but the west side of the city is a residential district and thus makes for a much more pleasant walk. An old lady redirected us near Villalbilla de Burgos, and while I don’t think it would have made an awful lot of difference if we’d kept going the way we were going, it’s nice that everyone around here id so invested in the Camino that they’re out to help.

I found a couple of storks feeding in the Arlanzón river just after the crossing. They’re always so unaffected and untouchable in their nests atop the turrets and towers of Spain’s churches, so it’s not all that often that you encounter them in their “natural” habitat, where they are surprisingly wary and don’t let you get too close.


Tardajos’ church was open so I dropped in to collect the second stamp of the day, and a tip-off from pilgrims further ahead alerted us to a nun blessing pilgrims in Rabé de las Calzadas. The sister in question, a little old lady in her seventies dressed all in white from the Daughters of Charity, stood at the door of a little chapel on the edge of town, waving passing pilgrims over to approach. We went over for a blessing.

Spiritually, we’re a mixed group: a lapsed Catholic, a Reform Jew, an Agnostic and a Catholic who has found his way to God relatively recently. But for this last, this moment was one of the most magical of the entire Camino so far.

Taking us firmly by the hand, the Sister talked to us awhile about the spirit of the Camino and what it truly means to be a believer, in the least preachy way I have ever heard. Some of the would-be youth pastors I have worked with in the past would have learned much by her example. She quoted a poet who she could not remember (and I cannot locate) and asked us to go forward with the eyes of an owl, always searching, the heart of a child, always feeling, and the feet of a pilgrim, always walking.

Perhaps she was paraphrasing the Spanish poet Antonio Machado’s Olivo del camino, which has the following line:

Que en tu ramaje luzca, árbol sagrado,
bajo la luna llena,

el ojo encandilado
del buho insomne de la sabia Atena.

She gave us each a small token of the Lady of Charity, blessed us with a gentle hand on the forehead and sent us on her way. A purer soul on the Camino would be hard to find.


After Rabé de la Calzada, the Camino climbs up one last time and then the Meseta begins in earnest: a vast and unbroken expanse of gold beneath the immensity of the Castilian sky, pushed beyond the reach of man by a thousand generations of Castilian countryfolk.

It is hard to describe the true beauty of the Meseta when so many pilgrims describe it as the “hardest” stage. The “least interesting” stage. The “most boring” or even “the ugliest”. It is certainly true that the spectacular Pyrenean scenery of the first few days is now little more than a distant memory.

But to do so is to ignore the magic of the Meseta. The whistling wind in the golden fields. The gentle throb of the wind turbines on the hills all around. The near total absence of birdsong, interrupted only so often by the twitter of a linnet or the call of a quail. This is a road that can be walked with a companion, but is best walked alone.

For me, this is where the true Camino begins: the road inside, into your head and into your heart, with nothing between you and your thoughts but the sapphire sky.


I was going to spend the afternoon writing, but I heard the church bells ringing for the afternoon Mass so I set down my things and wandered over. It wasn’t an especially large gathering, and I was the only Spanish speaker present until a small group of pilgrims from Urgell arrived, so I was called upon by the priest to do the reading. I could certainly have dressed more modestly, even though my options are limited out here, but I wasn’t expecting to be delivering the Lord’s word this afternoon, so… a sports vest, toe socks and Hawaiianas it was.

The reading was from Exodus, 11:10 to 12:14 – by far my favourite book of the Bible. For perhaps the first time in my life, I felt something in that church. It moved me. Not just the sacred words, but… something. Like a voice I could only perceive, that spoke to me without words. For a moment, I felt as though my great-grandparents and my grandfather were right there beside me. It was nearly enough to move me to tears.

When Mass was ended, the priest called us up to the altar for the pilgrim’s blessing. Everyone read the blessing in their own language. I read twice – once in English, once in Spanish. Spanish feels more natural for prayer – after all, if they prayed at all, that’s the language my ancestors would have spoken. And isn’t this all about a closer walk in their footsteps?


I have been on the road for eighteen days now. Twenty, if you count the day and night it took me to reach Oloron-Sainte-Marie and the start of the Camino. It has taken this long to find the spiritual side of the Camino for which my heart has been longing so. I feel more fortunate than ever and my heart is full of hope.

The Meseta stage can be a trial. It can deter many weary pilgrims, especially in the heat of the summer. But I remain convinced that it is where the unspoiled heart of the Camino can be found, in every sense of the word.

The way ahead is clear and my eyes are wide open. I shall follow that road, wherever it may lead, and trust in His plan, whatever that may be. BB x

Searching for God

I’m not a Christian. At least, not in the truest sense of the word. Insofar as my upbringing is concerned, I guess I don’t fall under any category other than Church of England, but when the occasional questionnaire gets handed my way, I tick the box marked ‘agnostic’ without a second’s thought. Only if that’s not an option, and it usually is, Christianity gets my vote over the ‘no religion’ box. Why does this matter? Because today I found myself, once again, in a position where it made more sense to come down on one side of the fence. ‘Christian’ simply makes a lot more sense than ‘no religion’. Strong words for a not-so strong belief, don’t you think?

Let me explain (you’d better get comfortable). I was baptised as a Christian. Church of England. Standard fare. I had a fairly regular English upbringing. I attended a Church of England primary school. I went to church every Christmas and Easter, like almost everyone else. The only minor difference was that my parents both had various musical roles in their respective churches, which meant that I probably spent more time in church than most kids my age. It just so happened that one of them was Canterbury Cathedral, where my dad was a lay-clerk. I guess you get a little blasé about that kind of thing when evensong is a biweekly venture. Not to mention all the school carol services held there. It certainly made the local church back home seem a little small by comparison, though I have warmer memories of that. When I was little I went to church every other Sunday, or at least when Mum played the organ. The memories get a little fuzzy sometimes; this is reaching quite a way back into my childhood. I remember only that I used to sit behind the choir near the organ pipes, and you could hear the organ humming long after everyone had filed out of church and Mum took her hands off the keys. Between that and the old gas heater glowing a dim red in the corner, I have this musty image of your run-of-the-mill Church of England parish tucked away in my head. That’s my strongest memory of the early days, at least. Nothing particularly special. I wasn’t even old enough to sit in the choir then, but I knew most of the hymns well enough, especially the ones they used to roll out on the projector at school. Morning has Broken, for one.

Fast-forward on a few years and it gets a little more interesting. Moving back to England from a year abroad in Spain finds me singing in the church choir in my new home town. It’s nothing more than something to do, I suppose, as I have little else to do at the weekends but go birdwatching down at Stodmarsh or Sandwich Bay – I’m still too young to be thinking about girls or going out – but it pays my first wages, and it feels ‘sort of right’. Right enough to take that next C of E step and decide to get ‘confirmed’. It’s not as big a deal as it is over in Spain, with the sailor suits and all the bells and whistles that go with it, but like I said, it seemed like ‘the right thing to do’. And the other kids in the choir were a lovely bunch, too.

Then along comes my early teenage years, a girlfriend and the beginning of a new approach: evangelicalism. She got me into it, I suppose, but it was something I took to with relish. Prayer and worship, spiritual healing, speaking in tongues… It was a brand new world and I loved every second of it. Ever heard of Soul Survivor? That kind of thing. It was a far cry from ‘open your hymn-books to Hymn no. 348‘ or what-have-you, at the very least. I might even go so far as to say that, for a little while, I even believed it. But it was the people that really made it for me, not the spiritual side of it. Just like playing the violin, the practising of which I had come to loathe, it was more the sense of community that went with it that I craved: the orchestra over the recital, and the worship group over the prayers. I guess you could say I built my house on the sand. Little wonder, then, that it all came crashing down with the end of that relationship. Coincidentally, it was raining that night, too.

I wandered for a while. I asked a lot of questions. I even stopped saying prayers at night, realising that most of them had been selfish anyway – especially the later ones. If not selfish, then love-blind at the very least. Eventually I returned, somewhat shame-faced, to my local church youth group, whom I’d abandoned for almost a year and a half. That was where I met Seth and Jenny Cooper, the Walmer Parish, and Katherine, that everlasting beacon, who showed me that there was more to life than a constant search for answers. For a little while longer, I continued to carry the flag, stronger than before. I was happy. But it was not to last. A series of unfortunate events came as the second hammer blow to my faith. I started to read about the Empire, and all the horrors that had been wrought in the name of God. My brother was assaulted on the way home from school. And Katherine, ever the kindling flame, went out of my life. A few weeks later, I gave up altogether.

As a true Christian, that was my final chapter. I had another fling with the Church in Uganda – ain’t no party like an African Baptist Prayer and Worship Party – but that was little more than a dalliance. Back in England, on the gap year that seemed like it would never end, faith eluded me. Mum, on the other hand, found her way to the Catholic Church and embarked upon what she has described as the ‘road her whole life had been leading towards’. I coveted that, I suppose. It wasn’t her new-found happiness of hers that I wanted, but that contented state of mind. Structured. Ordered. At peace. At one. Something that I’ve struggled with in all the hypocrisies of my life for the last seven years. Her faith gave her life a new meaning. I’d been looking for that meaning for a while with no such luck. People say that ‘finding yourself’ is the first step on the road to that level of understanding. If I could have ‘found myself in Africa’ as so many jokingly think I did, I’d probably have more of an idea as to where exactly I am right now. Unfortunately – or perhaps fortunately, as God knows how lost I’d have been – I didn’t, and the search continues. Right up until last night, when I found myself sitting in an Iraqi church, listening to a Californian preacher explaining the meaning of John 3:16 whilst a translator conveyed it to the congregation in Arabic. Talk about a new way of looking at things!

Now we come to the heart of the matter. I’m not a Christian, like I said at the start. I might have been once, but for a token gesture or two of late, I’m not labelling material at the moment. I can go through the motions like a mynah bird, of course, but that’s got more to do with habit and observation than anything else. That, and a burning desire to believe, whenever that day comes. Until it does, everything seems false. To pray to a God you don’t believe in with all of your heart, with all of your soul – does that not seem a bit ingenuous? That’s not to say I’m not religious, though. Given the choice I’d rather be spiritual than to disbelieve entirely. I’ll put it this way: there’s a hole in my heart that’s waiting for faith. I just haven’t found it yet.

I’ve had this discussion/argument with Andrew recently. I put it to him that I’d be happier not knowing all the answers; that sometimes it’s better to stop asking questions and to have a little faith in what you can’t see; that some things, like as not, are necessarily beyond our understanding. It goes against a great deal of my character, and I think he took umbrage at that, but it’s a principle I try to stick to, and as far as I’m concerned it’s connected to the most fundamental principle of all: hope. I swear by it. There is no greater sin in my book than despair. I might not have the staying power that others prize – indeed, if something is beyond my capability (or, more often, interest) I’m more likely than not to throw up my arms and walk away – but I never truly give up on the inside. And as long as that’s the case, I’d like to believe I still have a chance.

Faith lies somewhere along the road, of that much I’m sure. Wherever it may be is, for the time being, beyond my understanding. And that’s not a bad thing. I tried to find it out here, but for all the strength of the community and the goodwill of the people, it continues to elude me. Maybe I’m being picky. Maybe I’m looking too hard. I don’t know. I’ve just got to keep trying.

I leave you (and this gargantuan post, which is approaching essay length as the clock strikes twenty minutes to midnight) with the only Bible verse I’ve consigned to heart, as it speaks to me on much the same level as it ever did five years ago, when first I found it:

The light shines in the darkness, and the darkness has not overcome it.
John 1:5

I wonder whatever happened to Katherine? I hope her light is still shining brightly for the rest of the world, wherever she is. BB x

A Sex-Tape is a Step Too Far

I think the title needs a little explanation.

In addition to the mid-term exam, our Arabic teacher set us the task of coming up with a five to seven minute presentation on a topic of our choosing. It took me until the morning to come up with something I could realistically rattle on about for that amount of time (no, seriously), but after stumbling over my words as usual, I ended up putting Andrew up to a bet whereby he had to talk about Kanye West. Naturally, Andrew tried to make his presentation somewhat relevant to what we’d studied so that he could activate the vocabulary, or whatever buzzword you want to use. The result was an exploration of the modern wedding through the Kimye phenomenon, complete with all the gory details, ego, sex tape and all. Highly entertaining, of course, but our teacher took umbrage at the subject, claiming that it was ‘hardly suitable’ for class, and debarred us from asking any questions so as to bring the topic to a decided halt. Still, the man did a good job, and he held his ground in spite of all the criticism, so I held up my end of the bargain and rustled up a pretty neat lentil and vegetable stew for him and Andreas, as promised.

To kill some time in the post-class hours, Andreas took us to an underground church in West Amman to help him to teach English to a group of Iraqi refugees. Just a couple of hours in a church not too dissimilar in style from a Worth Abbey chapel, which made me smile almost as soon as I set foot in the place. John 3:16 was up on the wall behind the lectern in golden lettering; it was pretty clear from the first four words, even in Arabic. Beautiful stuff. The Iraqis themselves, Christians from Basra, were just about the nicest bunch of people I’ve met here in Jordan yet. Andreas and his teaching partner Jason assigned Andrew and I four to teach, and we discussed hospital related vocab to get the ball rolling. Whilst we worked, the children of our students scampered about the church at full pitch. I haven’t seen such unfettered happiness in a while. One of our group was a lot quicker on the draw than the others when it came to learning all the new words and expressions, but Raja’, the oldest of the group at seventy-one years old, was an utter delight to teach, especially when she came out with a flawless sentence at the end of the session, primarily because she was so shy. It kind of reminded me of how I must have been earlier down the line. Boy, but it was good to be teaching again, though. Getting back into practice for my assistantship in two months’ time. Better still, Iraqi Arabic is the closest to fusHa out there and a joy to listen to. Basra sounds like a beautiful place, as if Iraq needs anything more to make it more appealing. Land of the Abbasids! Home of Abu Nuwas! Man, why can’t I spend my Year Abroad in Iraq?

Wait, on second thoughts, don’t answer that one.

There’s a lot to be said for this religion malarkey. With any luck, one day the moment will come and I will believe. Warm fuzzy aside, I’ve got to say that those two hours were a godsend, no pun intended. All of my frustration and anger from the past week simply disappeared. I have Faras and his friends to thank for that, for being so friendly and eager to learn; and of course Andreas, for giving me the chance to get in on the project. All is well with my heart once again. I’m still going to fight for the chance to go back to Morocco next year, but I know now that I can and will survive another month out here. I can do this.

Hold the phone, according the beeb there’s a storm coming. Rain. You have no idea how happy this makes me. That it’s going to be 41 degrees at the peak of the storm is beside the point. Bring on the rain, I say. Bring it. BB x