Overnight, I’ve gone from one of the tallest people in town to one of the shortest. Or at least, on a par with the locals. That’s because Cusco is awash with tourists, as it surely has been ever since Machu Picchu was rediscovered. Towering Germans, athletic Americans, French and Italian girls walking around in legging shorts that seem at odds with the local custom of long dresses, heavy socks and boots.
I could go off on one of my usual rants about the vapidity of some of these tick-box trekkers. But I won’t. You’re bored of hearing it and I’m bored of repeating it. So I’ll focus on the other things I’ve seen. It is worth knowing, however, just how much the tourists seem to run this town.
Today is Easter Sunday, so I allowed myself a proper night’s sleep (my first in a while) and had breakfast at the hotel before going to the cathedral for prayers.
I have, at last, noticed the altitude. It’s not debilitating like I thought, but it is certainly a factor that cannot be ignored. Going to sleep last night was a drawn-out procedure, not because some of the Picchu junkies wouldn’t stop talking at the top of their voices, but because it felt like I was eternally short of breath. Every yawn and every deep breath felt incomplete. I guess that’s simply a factor of living at this kind of altitude – there’s simply less oxygen to go around.
By the morning, however, I was feeling much better, so I had all the energy I needed to go out and get my bearings.
Semana Santa came to an end this morning with the celebration of Jesus’ resurrection in the Catedral de Cusco. They had three Masses back to back and I caught the tail end of the second.
The cathedral was almost full to bursting, so I said my prayers in front of the shrine to Mary with a few of the local women. Unexpectedly, I felt something. Not for the first time, either. I’m not entirely sure what it was, but it moved me.
I scoped out the HQ for the Amazon Wildlife company so that I would be able to find my way there easily tomorrow. There was a local man with a very violent nosebleed being attended to by two policemen outside. I hope that’s not a potential symptom of altitude sickness!
Speaking of which, as it was still fairly early, I decided to climb up to the old Inca fortress of Sacsayhuamán that sits on a hilltop above the city of Cusco. When I say climb, I mean it. The ascent is no joke. It’s supposed to be good practice for the Inca Trail, but as that’s not on my itinerary, it served as a beginning for the Waqrapukara and Inti Punku side quests I have planned.
Sacsayhuamán is a large Inca complex, parts of which can be found all around Cusco, since the Spanish took a leaf out of their former Moorish rulers’ book and cannibalised much of the fortress to build their churches and colonial houses and estates. The rocks that remain are mostly the largest and most cumbersome, retaining their masterful stonemasonry – each of them cut in just such a way as to slot together without need for mortar.
There’s no gold here – any that there might have been was stolen by the Spanish may hundreds of years ago – but it is still quite an impressive complex. It’s certainly more than ‘just a pile of stones’ as one English father remarked to his wife and son on their way up the hill…
I decided to throw any idea of self-consciousness to the wind on the way back down and spent about forty minutes or so hunting hummingbirds. The winding path up to Sacsayhuamán follows a Eucalyptus forest, which was uncommonly alive with birdsong (those poisonous trees are usually devoid of life). One particularly noisy resident is the beautifully named Sparkling Violetear, one of the many hummingbirds that can be found in the hills around Cusco. They’re notoriously hard to photograph, but patience is a virtue I have learned through this hobby, so after enduring the stares and multilingual remarks about the size of my camera by all the passers-by I was rewarded with a close encounter with one of the sparkling little gems.
I saw a giant hummingbird, the largest of its kind, on the way up, but it didn’t stick around for very long, so the violetears were my main success this morning. I’m going to a hummingbird sanctuary tomorrow, so I might well see a great deal more of them, but for now, I’m happy with what I saw and heard.
I found a spot in town for lunch that wasn’t crawling with tourists (in fact, it was almost entirely Peruvian in clientele, which is always a good sign). A huge bowl of caldo de cordero and a drink cost me a grand total of forty soles, which is a little less than £9. I’m going to miss how affordable this country is.
I’ll also miss how handsome the people are. What a royal profile these Peruvians have! And to think that some people pay for a rhinoplasty to have their noses shrunk… What a travesty! I find it quite a fetching look, myself.
I’ve taken it easy today, otherwise I might burn out – it is a pretty full on adventure, and I’m conscious that I’m back to work the day after I return, so I need to fit in some time to rest during this holiday.
But that won’t stop me going out for supplies and another wander this evening. Maybe I’ll be able to find something new in the twilight! BB x
Aeropuerto Internacional Alfredo Rodríguez, Arequipa. 16.20.
I have often seen it written of Uganda that it is Africa in miniature – that is, a concentrated version of the vast array of biomes you can find across the continent. The more I travel Peru, the more I’m convinced that this is South America’s equivalent: jungle, desert, glaciers, prairie, megacities and coastal plains. Peru really does have it all. No wonder it is home to the second largest number of bird species in the world (after Colombia).
If the Islas Ballestas are touted as the “poor man’s Galápagos”, then today I paid a flying visit to the poor man’s Salar de Uyuni. While my original plan for this adventure ended with a trip to Bolivia’s enormous salt flats on the edge of the Atacama Desert, my decision to go all in on an Amazonian side-quest to Manu got in the way. I really didn’t want to leave South America without seeing the salt lakes, though, as they were a fairly major inspiration for coming out here in the first place.
Luckily, there’s one tiny outlier of the Uyuni salt flats tucked away in the mountains east of Arequipa, within the Reserva Nacional de Salinas y Aguada Blanca. Getting there is a pretty arduous journey, but if you can find a way, the views are out of this world.
My onward flight to Cusco leaves at 18.05, so I needed to find a way to the salt flats and back in time to catch my plane. As luck would have it, there was a tour on GetYourGuide that fit the bill perfectly. It meant another early start, but after yesterday’s 2am kick-off, a 5.40am pick-up felt like a lie-in.
Not a bus or a people carrier this time, but a Land Cruiser. There were only two other travelers on board – a bilingual couple from Texas and Veracruz – so I got the front seat. Result!
Ah, but I’m not that naive. If something feels too good to be true, it’s usually because it is.
We had one more passenger to pick up before leaving Arequipa, but in a turn of events that would probably be familiar to a US Homeland Security officer, that one passenger turned out to be a family of five – they’d simply “forgotten” to mention they’d booked for more than one.
Not for the first time, being young and single became a major liability. As the most expendable passenger, I was asked if I would be so kind as to sit in the back.
I didn’t mind overmuch at the time – after all, one thing my superzoom isn’t very good at is in-transit photography – but I hadn’t considered the terrain… or the supreme manspreading abilities of the couple squeezed in next to me. The tarmac road stops shortly after leaving the Arequipa suburb of Paucarpata. From there on out, it’s a dirt track all the way up to the salt lakes – and the road winds a lot.
For all of two hours, I was rocked about in the back of the car, bumping my head quite a bit – which is more than can be said for the state of my legs! The relief when the lakes came into view… words can’t begin to describe!
There was a fair bit of activity around the edge of the lake – mostly free-roaming llamas and alpacas, but a couple of small herds of vicuña, too.
We stopped by the lake’s edge for a closer look. The herd’s dominant male wasn’t particularly chuffed, but he had his hands (or hooves?) full keeping one of the younger males in line with much running around and snorting.
Before going out to explore the area, our driver took us to the tiny lakeside community of Chilitia for a light breakfast. As an apology for the cramped conditions of the journey, breakfast was on the house for the three of us on the back row. Granted, we’re talking a grand total of 15 soles, but the gesture was very much appreciated – my legs were still pretty sore!
As always, the stop was also an incentive to buy local alpaca products. It’s getting to the stage where I’m considering breaking a lifelong aversion to souvenir shopping, but I’m still very conscious that I have to carry everything I have on my back – and it’s already a tighter squeeze than the back seat of that Land Cruiser once my lens is packed away.
So I just contented myself with watching the llamas and enjoying the palliative effects of a coca tea.
The most amazing thing about today’s adventure was the unrestricted freedom of it. Once we’d reached the water’s edge, we were given an hour and fifteen to go wherever we wanted – even out onto the flats, if we so desired.
Music to my ears! I’d already clocked a number of things I didn’t recognise, so I was anxious to get to work.
One of the big draws of the Salinas – at least for a naturalist like me – is that all three of South America’s flamingoes can be found here. The red-kneed Chilean flamingoes stayed far out in the centre of the lake, but a few flamboyances (yes, that is the collective noun) of Andean and James’ flamingoes were a little closer to the shore, so I tried to see if I could differentiate them by sight.
It’s mainly a question of checking their legs. Chilean flamingoes have black legs with distinct red knees. Andean flamingoes have yellow legs, and James’ flamingoes have red legs. If your eyesight is sharp enough, you’ll also notice that James’ flamingoes have red lores – that is, the patch of skin between the eye and the beak. Simplicity itself!
In the winter months, these lakes dry out and turn bone white under the unforgiving Andean sun, but now it’s the shoulder season, and there’s still enough water to keep the flamingoes around. Once it’s gone, they’ll leave these mountains and make for more permanent wetlands along the coast, like the Pántanos de Villa in Lima.
I’m still a kid at heart, so I scoured the lakeside for flamingo feathers. I found three bright pink ones, but they were kind of wet (as you might expect) so I cleaned them up using a couple of napkins I’d brought along and pocketed them. When they’re properly dry, I’ll put them in my journal with the others I’ve picked up along the way.
While there’s water, the salt lakes form an altogether different kind of miracle: an enormous natural mirror, broken only by the tiny ripples around the feet of the flamingoes. It’s places like this that make you especially grateful for clouds, because under a clear sky, half the magic of these magic mirrors would be lost.
Flamingoes aren’t the only knock-kneed stars of the altiplano. A familiar and yet unfamiliar call alerted me to a couple of Andean avocets, who sounded like the ones we have back home, only… accented. As though they’re speaking a different language. Which, I suppose, they are!
This one spent a long time chasing sandpipers. I’m not sure what threat it thought the tiny little waders posed, but it wasted no time in putting all the sandpipers in the immediate area to flight.
I spent about half an hour exploring the lakeside before turning inland in search of highland species. I found quite a handful, all of which I had to look up later: cream-winged ciclodes, Andean negritos, Cordilleran canasteros and crested ducks, to name just a few.
But the star find was a pair of adorable seedsnipes – a tiny wader distantly related to the plovers, but looking for all the world like a finch-sized partridge.
If it hadn’t been for the driver whistling me back to the car (fifteen minutes early, mind!), I’d have stuck around to see if I could find some more of them.
But alas! My traveling companions were bored and had seen all they had to see, taken the selfies they wanted to take, and were ready to go home. So I was summoned back to the car and we set off on the return journey to Arequipa.
Mercifully, I fell asleep for the first hour of the journey – probably on account of the sun! – but the last hour was even more cramped than the journey up had been, with both of my neighbouring passengers spread out in slumber. Once we were back in Arequipa, it took the best part of an hour before my legs had recovered completely.
That’s enough cramped conditions for one day. I’ve found my seat on the flight for Cusco and it’s wonderfully comfy (LatAm, you are a dream come true).
It’s time to go up again. The Inca stronghold of Cusco awaits! See you on the other side. BB x
Some days I am extremely grateful for being an optimist. Today was definitely one of those days.
I was up at 2.30am – by far the earliest start of the whole trip – to catch the tour bus to Colca from outside my hotel (or rather, the hotel I originally booked, as they made a mistake with their booking and put me in a sister establishment seven minutes down the road). Unlike the social media savvy PeruHop, I didn’t have an awful lot to go on as toprecisely which bus I was meant to be looking out for… just a vague indication that I would be picked up from my alojamiento between 2.50 and 3.20am. I got there for 2.51 at a very brisk walk, passing a couple of buses along the way, and as the time went by and no bus appeared, I began to wonder whether I had missed it. It would be a first for South America – an extremely prompt bus – but your mind plays those sorts of tricks on you when you’re tired and traveling solo far from home.
Just as the numbers on my phone’s screen switched to 3.20am, a man jumped out of a small people carrier at the end of the road and asked if I was Benjamin. I was evidently their last pick-up, because as soon as I was on board we set out on the three-hour journey to Chivay, the gateway to Colca Canyon.
Unlike my companions – Peruvian to the last man – I’m not sure I managed any sleep. The windows were so heavily fogged up with their breath that my continued attempts to clear a viewing panel never lasted any longer than a few seconds. Even so, between the twilight and the condensation, I spotted my first herds of camelids out on the altiplano. Vicuñas, I suppose – I don’t think you get guanacos this far north.
Today’s journey took me up into the Andes for the first time. We stopped at a mirador some 4.910 metres above sea level, which is easily the highest I’ve ever climbed in my life – and this isn’t even the Andes proper. The ground was covered in a thin layer of frost, turning the many hundreds of stone cairns all around into petrified snowmen. A few hardy native women wrapped up from head to toe in colourful scarves were bravely plying their wares to each and every bus that stopped by – which, this being Good Friday and thus a national holiday, was no small number.
The snow-capped peaks of the Andes were all around us now. Away to the west, one of them was producing its own clouds, billowing slowly from its summit: Sabancaya, the Tongue of Fire, a volcano that erupted into life in 2015. I’ve heard an active volcano before, way back when I was looking for mountain gorillas on the Congolese border, I’ve experienced their terrifying tremors and I’ve even seen the sky glow red from their magma, but I’ve never actually laid eyes on one.
From the frozen heights of the Mirador, we climbed slowly back down into the valley below to the town of Chivay, where we stopped for a light breakfast of boiled eggs, flatbread and a watery but absolutely delicious kind of porridge. While the others dosed up on coffee, I made sure to sift through the teabags and find the one containing mate de coca. I had a feeling I was going to need it. I even took a couple extra for the road.
From Chivay, we made straight for the canyon. The sun was just about at that optimal point in the sky for thermals, and everybody knew it. Our daring driver tried to overtake a particularly stubborn tour bus on at least four occasions, but their driver was having none of it.
Fortunately, despite the potentially alarming number of graves and shrines at the side of the road, the bus cut a safe path through the canyon, treating us to spectacular views along the way.
We reached the Cruz del Condor at around 8.45 – along with the rest of Peru, by the looks of things. And we couldn’t have timed it better! I had barely managed to get the camera strap around my neck when our guide pointed out a huge shadow cresting the ridge, right over the heads of the gathering crowd: a juvenile Andean condor. I didn’t need the lens to work that one out, since only the adults have the telltale white scarf.
I had to make a choice: climb up to the melee of the Cruz del Cóndor itself, or try my luck at the quieter vantage point further along the ravine.
I went for the former – which, in the circumstances, was absolutely the right thing to do.
I found a space for myself near the top, where a young couple had lately been taking selfies. I didn’t have to wait long. Another enormous shape – this time a fully-grown adult – came soaring up the canyon toward us.
I knew the odds at Colca were good, but I had no idea the views would be quite this good. As my guide put it, I “came prepared with the big gun”, but I might just as well have brought the 300mm, since they came so close. I might even have got the whole bird in the frame, especially when one of them flew straight overhead at so low an altitude that I could hear the whoosh of the wind in its massive wings.
I’ll be honest with you – and with myself. This is why I’m here. It was condors or bust. The Amazon tour awaits – though that feels like a very distinct holiday – and the things that I have seen so far have been incredible, but it has all been a crescendo up to this moment. I am, unashamedly, a vulture fanatic, and there probably isn’t a greater quest out there for a vulture fiend like me than tracking down the largest vulture on the planet.
Genuinely, I’d have settled for a distant sighting against the backdrop of the mighty Andes, like the one below, but somebody up there is being extremely generous.
My only regret is remembering the continuous shoot mode on my camera after I had got back onto the bus. Then again, with 1,400 photos already on my memory card out of a possible 4,000 and six days in the Amazon still to go – other adventures notwithstanding – perhaps I could afford to be conservative!
There are plenty of other high montane species to be found around the Colca Canyon, including giant hummingbirds and hillstars, but I was quite happy to give all of my time to the condors – especially as we only had forty minutes. It’s moments like these that remind me (with no small amount of relief) that I am a naturalist and not a twitcher.
That said, I did finally manage to catch up with Peru’s answer to the house sparrow, the handsome rufous-crowned sparrow, as there were a few of them scampering about the car park.
Leaving Colca and its condors behind, we returned the way we had come, stopping in the mountain hold of Maca for a bit of souvenir shopping. I’m useless at buying souvenirs, so I used the time to explore the town and its church. Earthquakes are common in this part of Peru, and Maca’s church – like every other church in the canyon – was held up both outside and in by a scaffold of supportive struts. Many of these churches date back to the time of the reducciones, when the Spanish forced the indigenous Quechua people out of the mountains and into the towns and villages, where they could be counted, controlled and – most importantly – taxed.
There are a number of statues and sculptures in town, but the one that really caught my eye was one I’d spotted on the way out, featuring an Inca warrior fighting off a conquistador. Apart from the churches, this is actually the first obvious reference to the Spanish invasion I’ve been able to find. I was expecting more. Perhaps they will become more obvious in Cusco.
The next stop on the tour took us to a river valley near Chivay famous for its hot springs. Most of the others went for a dip in the baths, along with hundreds of other Peruvians enjoying their Good Friday holiday. Following a tip-off from a blog I’d read recently, I set off in the opposite direction and climbed up into the hills, where it was significantly quieter. From there, you can see all the way up to a range of snowbound peaks where, if my guide is correct, the Amazon river is born.
I had another run-in with the tiny, sparrow-sized ground-doves that seem to be the only animal in Peru with a healthy fear of man – I hadn’t been able to catch a photo of one for love nor money! I also disturbed a tinamou, a Peruvian gamebird more closely related to the ratites (rheas, emus etc) than to the partridges and pheasants which they resemble. It too was much too quick for me, disappearing into the scrub below before I could distinguish anything more than a jagged crest. I’ll have to check later when I have signal, as there’s been precious little up here in the mountains.
Lunch was a spectacular buffet with a wide array of Peruvian options, including alpaca (tough and beefy), lamb (in a delicious green Andean sauce) and chicharrón, an old favourite. The trout soup I had for starters was one of the best I’ve ever had in my life, and tasted almost exactly the way I always imagined Yeto’s superb soup in Zelda: Twilight Princess (right down to the rich cheesy flavour).
Half of our group was suffering from the effects of mal de altura, especially the young family of four from Lima (with the possible exception of their eight-year-old daughter, who seemed utterly immune to its debilitating effects). I thanked my stars for my constitution, my luck or the coca tea I had earlier in the morning, because I didn’t seem to have been affected at all.
The return journey to Arequipa took us back across the altiplano which we had crossed in the darkness this morning. Once we were down and out of the high mountains, we reached a large stretch of Andean prairie, pockmarked with spongy pools. There was a small herd of alpacas grazing, but they weren’t alone. With the weather still holding out (and only just), I had the chance to see the vicuñas I’d only glimpsed this morning, grazing not too far from the road.
Alpaca wool is world-famous for its warmth and softness – and justifiably so – but vicuña wool is in a class all of its own. Like chamois leather, there must be something about a life lived high up in the mountains that makes their pelts unbelievably soft. I’m quite happy to see it on the body of the animal it belongs to, but I was concerned that this blog was becoming less informative and more “I went here and saw this”, so I thought a fact or two might even things out!
As well as the vicuñas, there were four other altiplano specialists in and around the pools: Andean geese, Andean gulls, a number of very handsome Puna teals and, further off, the swamphen-sized giant coots that can only be found high up in the mountains. It was only a five minute stop, and I’ll be back tomorrow to explore this part of the reserve, so I prioritised the gull and teals.
Teals of any variety are always well-dressed birds, as though the Creator gave them first choice of evening wear, but I thought these blue-billed mountain ducks were especially smart.
One last stop – a glorified toilet break, I suspect – set us down at the edge of the altiplano, with stunning views of the conical volcano that lords over Arequipa, known as El Misti. It was quite a sight as I touched down in Arequipa yesterday, but even more impressive without the sprawl of the city at its feet. The influence of El Misti is everywhere in Arequipa, also known as the White City, since most of the buildings are constructed out of the white volcanic ashlar stone that gave the city its title. It hasn’t had a major eruption since the time of the Inca Empire, more than five hundred years ago, but it remains an active volcano – and a potential threat to the city of Arequipa which lies at its feet.
Today started out potentially dicey and wound up being the best day of the adventure so far. I’ve had Good Fridays that were memorable, but this one really takes the biscuit. This was a very, very Good Friday. I’ll be sure to give the Lady of the Marshes the thanks she deserves tonight.
Once again, I am reminded that optimism is the right outlook, no matter how bad things get. It’s also categorically impossible to be worried or sad in a country as full of natural wonders as Peru.
This country has won me over. The Peruvians are so kind and seem to care a great deal more about the natural world than the average European. The salespeople understand boundaries. The food is incredible (I’m aware I’ve used the phrase “best ever” at least twice now). The mountains take my breath away, without leaving my head spinning (so far). The women are beautiful – and they give you the time of day. The plants are fascinating, the animals are incredible and the birds are nothing short of spectacular.
I’m often asked by my students which, of all the places I’ve been, is my favourite country. Spain has been uncontested for all my life, and it always will be. But at least now I have a definitive second place where there wasn’t before. Someday, God willing, I’ll be back. BB x
The time has come to leave Lima and the Pacific behind and make for the interior. I have enough sense not to go from 79m above sea level to 3.400m in one go, so I’m bound for Arequipa, the White City, which sits at a decent halfway house of 2.335m. That’s still a good thousand metres higher than Andorra la Vella, which is probably the closest I’ve ever come to sleeping at altitude, but it’ll have to do.
After spending ages writing up yesterday’s report, I sat back in the upstairs lounge area of Pariwana, finished off my (now rather crushed) Doritos and called an Uber. Whisked away by another speedy and efficient limeño, I said hasta la próxima to the city and its mighty Pacific shore – since I’ll be back, albeit briefly, at the end of my adventure.
Lima’s Jorge Chávez airport is a model of efficiency. Fine, so the USB charging ports don’t all work (I never did find one that was fully operational), but the security is slick and efficient and it has a lot of good places to eat offering real food, not just fast food junk (England, please learn from this). I’ve also been to shadier airports. Despite being in the heart of the run-down district of Callao – which is known for having a higher violent crime rate than the rest of the capital – I found it was perfectly safe to come and go.
From the air, Lima looks a lot better than it does from the street. You can really appreciate the might of the Atlantic swell as its parallel waves break upon the winding coastal cliffs that separate the city from the sea.
Herman Melville described the city as “Tearless Lima – the strangest, saddest city thou can’st see”. I suspect he was referring either to the lack of rain or, more likely, to the garúa, the dense costal fog that usually clouds Peru’s capital in a white veil. I saw the garúa on the night I arrived, and it lingered into my first morning, but the city has been basking under the South American sun for most of my stay, so tearless is not a word I will be using to describe Lima anymore.
I can’t remember whether I paid extra for a window seat on this flight, but I had one, and that was pretty special. Looking back, it would have been foolish to pay the ridiculous 90$ for the privilege of a window from Madrid to Bogotá, as almost all of the Caribbean and South American leg was under a dense cover of cloud. You win some, you lose some. All I lost was the possibility of a good sleep.
I was on the wrong side of the plane for the Nazca lines, though I think we would have been a bit too high up to see them anyway. What I got instead was an unrestricted view of the mountains below as they climbed and climbed and climbed, up into the clouds and even up and above them.
I could post some pictures of the mountains, but with my itinerary for the next week or so being largely mountain-oriented, I think I’ll spare you the overload. What is much easier to appreciate from the sky, however, is the incredible human geography of South America.
I’m no fan of cities – you know this – but that doesn’t mean I can’t appreciate their shape, their size and their strangeness – especially when they seem to blend into the very earth itself (something we don’t do nearly well enough in Northern Europe).
New World cities favour the grid system that, in Europe, is most famously found in Barcelona. It’s still alien to me and I find it quite fascinating to behold from the sky.
Arequipa, the second largest city in Peru after Lima, is also faithful to the grid system – even though the city is scored and cut through by canyons and rivers. Old Word architects would have worked around the landscape, twisting streets and warping estates to fit into the space, but here in the Americas, they just stuck to the plan, regardless of the complications.
Well – here we are in Arequipa, stage two of the Peruvian adventure. I think tonight’s Semana Santa celebration is a subdued one, so I will try to get some rest. It’s a 2.30am start tomorrow, so if I don’t get an early night, I’ll be more like the walking dead for Colca Canyon tomorrow.
Which probably isn’t the best advice when you’re looking for the largest carrion-eater on the planet. BB x
Today is a travel day. My onward flight to Arequipa doesn’t leave until 5pm – a luxury in a trip full of early starts – so I’m having a proper rest this morning.
It also gives me ample time to give yesterday’s adventure the write-up it deserves.
When I leave Lima for Arequipa on Thursday, I won’t see the Pacific again until I return to the capital for my flight home in just over two weeks’ time. That means saying goodbye to something awesome and powerful that has been the eternal backdrop to my Peruvian adventures thus far, and trading it in for the majesty of the Andes, the longest mountain chain in the world.
I couldn’t leave without going out onto the waters of the Pacific at least once, so today I jumped onto a trip to the Islas Ballestas – the Ballista Islands – run by the Peruvian tourism colossus, Peru Hop.
Paracas is a proper schlep from Lima – four hours, to be precise – so the company’s iconic red bus picked me up at 5.30am. One of the backpackers from my hostel panicked because it wasn’t there bang on half past, which I thought was surprising from a person who had been traveling South America far longer than I. In any event, the guides came looking for us at each hostel along the way, which I thought was bloody efficient, given the size of Lima itself.
Peru goes to the polls to elect its next president on the 12th April, and there are billboards for the various presidential candidates everywhere. Comedians. Bankers. Career politicians and military generals. Relatives of former presidents. Every district seems to have its own champion. If it’s a two-horse race like it so often is elsewhere in the world, you’d never know at a glance.
I’ll be deep in the Amazon rainforest when it all goes down, but at least I’ll be here. What a time to be in Peru!
The bus to Paracas was packed – every seat taken. Mostly young backpackers, but a scattering of older couples as well. A British woman all in pink ended up next to me – pink crop top, pink smartwatch, pink nails, pink leggings, pink lipstick, pink stripes on her shoes, pink cover for her phone, pink handbag… An Essex Elle Woods if ever there were one. I suspect she was off to Pisco and Huacachina for wine-tasting and dune-buggying, rather than a tour of the national park. To quote an old friend, “you don’t need foundation for a safari”.
In Paracas, all three buses in our convoy were disgorged onto the steps of the Hotel Residencial Los Frailes, before being led straight to the jetty for the boat trip to the Islas Ballestas. Honestly, I was expecting more hassle from local touts on route, but my experience so far of Peruvian hawkers is that they are considerably less aggressive in their tactics than their African and Asian counterparts. I wasn’t hassled once.
There’s plenty to see before you even leave the still waters of the harbour. Neotropic cormorants are just about everywhere, perched on the hulls of almost every skiff in the bay, but they’re far from the most obvious residents of Paracas.
Far larger and more impressive are the pelicans, with a seven foot wingspan and standing at around five feet tall. That’s as tall as the average Peruvian woman. They’re not exactly shy, either. While they’re more commonly observed resting on boats and skiffs or crashing headfirst into the sea in a clumsy imitation of the Peruvian booby, they can often be found right at the heart of human activity. There were a few loitering around the jetty in Paracas, but I had a boat to catch, so I made a mental note to swing by later.
The Peruvian coastline from the sea is nothing short of mesmerising: undulating deserts of marbled rock set against a powder-blue sky that lightens toward the horizon. The cliffs are scored with white, a combination of thousands of yearsof accumulated salt and guano, the bird droppings that once made Peru one of the richest countries in South America.
One of the most iconic sights in this corner of Peru is the enormous geoglyph, “El Candelabro”. This 170 metre tall symbol was carved into the earth some 2,500 years ago and, due to the extreme scarcity of rainfall here (it rains for an average of thirty minutes a year), it has never been washed away.
Scholars believe it may be related in some way to the Nazca lines, which can be found further inland along the coast. I had originally planned to see these for myself, but they aren’t on my itinerary this year. Maybe next time.
Everyone on the boat got up on their feet to get a photo or selfie with the enormous geoglyph, but I was quite happy with the one picture I had. I was a lot more trigger-happy with the feathered denizens of the cliffs – the pelicans, boobies and Inca terns – which were fishing all around us. They made for quite an awesome sight against the backdrop of the desert.
After visiting the geoglyph, the captain turned the boat around and stepped on the gas in the direction of the islands. The Islas Ballestas take their name from the crossbow used by hunters long ago against the thousands of birds who call these craggy cliffs home.
Incidentally, that’s also where the name “booby” comes from. These beautiful seabirds were bobos to Spanish sailors – stupid – because they were so unafraid of people that they came right up to the boats, only to be captured and clubbed to death. Boobies are extremely monogamous, usually pairing just once during their lifetimes. It is said that they will perish of a broken heart if their partner is killed. As such, they are also known in Peru as “bobos románticos”.
It says a lot about the human character that we once saw such devotion as something foolish.
These islands were once home to an enormous colony of guanay cormorants – the primary source of the guano on these cliffs – but they have all but evacuated the place. The reason is not hunting or overfishing but the vicious avian flu epidemic in 2022, which cost the lives of nearly six hundred sea lions and fifty-five thousand seabirds, decimating the islands’ populations of boobies, pelicans, cormorants and penguins. The colony is slowly recovering, but the cormorants that once turned the sanctuary cliffs black and white are now just a shadow of what they once were, especially outside of the breeding season.
One of the biggest draws on the islands remains its dwindling colony of Humboldt penguins. We saw only seven of them, but there may have been others out hunting in the open ocean, as the breeding season is now long behind us. How these bipedal creatures made it high up onto the cliffs beats me, but it was fun to see them waddling down to the edge to watch us sailing by.
The last of the feathered residents of the islands that deserve a mention are its Inca terns, an especially smart seabird with handsome “whiskers” beneath its eyes. They’re known colloquially as “ladrones del mar” on account of their habit of stealing fish from the neighbouring cormorants and boobies, but I didn’t see any thieving today. On the contrary, they were showing remarkable success in their own fishing endeavours around the islands, and like most terns, they’re tremendously acrobatic and quite a joy to watch.
It would be remiss of me not to mention the fur seals and sea lions that live on these islands. They’re not as fun to photograph as the birds, and as we’re in the middle of their breeding season, we weren’t allowed to get too close to their sanctuary beach (males and females live apart, with only the dominant male having access to his mighty harem). The fur seals were mostly lounging around in the midday sun, but I did see a few sea lions chasing our boat there and back, and a mother and pup playing in the surf not too far from the boat.
The return journey to Paracas stops at a buoy, which is apparently a favourite haul-out for the seals. Why here, halfway between the islands and the coast, was not explained, though I suspect it’s because the waters are especially rich in this spot. There was a huge amount of activity from both birds and fishermen around here.
The captain drove right up to the buoy, which spooked the fur seal that was already in the water, but the others didn’t seem to troubled. It was already pretty hot, and with the waters in these parts carrying the Antarctic chill of the Humboldt current, it must be nice to have an isolated spot to come and warm up, out of reach of the blue sharks that hunt them further out to sea.
Back in Paracas, I made sure to revisit the pelicans, who clearly hadn’t gone very far since we set out. I suspect they’re enticed by a couple of savvy local touts who hope to draw in tourist traffic by keeping a few of these mighty creatures close at hand, but they didn’t give me any trouble. One advantage of having the mighty zoom lens on me is that I don’t need to get too close, especially when to comes to birds as big as the Peruvian pelican.
Swooping in to steal the spotlight, however, came a cousin of the gallinazos I spent so long with yesterday: a turkey vulture. If black vultures were the stars of yesterday’s adventure, the turkey vulture worked overtime to take its place today, starting with this happy chappie who had a large fish all to himself – once he’d scared off the kelp gulls who had found the thing first.
Seeing the vulture tucking in reminded me that, bar a light street food snack the night before, I hadn’t really eaten a square meal since departing Colombia on Monday. As such, I was quite prepared to go all out for lunch. There were plenty of spots offering ceviche, a Peruvian specialty, but I was much more interested in the parihuela, a crab-based seafood stew laced with Peruvian lime.
Honestly? One of the best meals I’ve ever had, and that’s not only because my hunger was keen. They left the entire crab in the bowl to intensify the flavour, and I very nearly ate the entire dish, defeated only by a couple of spoonfuls.
One large bowl of the stuff was enough to keep me going all day and well into the following morning. I wonder if that’s a healthier way to live? It sure makes a nice change from three school meals a day.
After lunch, I swapped buses with the tour heading into the national park. There were only nine of us including the two guides, Deborah and Paul, which made for a much more peaceful and reflective adventure into the desert. I wound up next to a chatty English girl on her gap year, who was headed for Panama and had struck it out alone for most of the journey. There seem to be quite a few types like that out here, wending their way up the continent, and with bus and flight prices being why they are, I’m hardly surprised.
The Paracas peninsula is special in that it is one of the last stretches of the Atacama Desert, the driest desert on the planet. True to form, there was very little to see by way of life from the bus. No vegetation, no water, almost no sign of life at all.
That is, except for the turkey vultures, which have a colony of their own along the cliffs.
In the late afternoon, with the wind picking up, these handsome creatures ride the thermals along the coast and can be seen at eye level as they glide up towards you from the bay below.
It’s always special to see a vulture from above, as they’re usually specks against the firmament. I’m fully expecting that to be the case with the condors, but if I should be so lucky, I might just get the same experience in Colca tomorrow. Fingers crossed!
Right – that will do for today. That took me the best part of two hours to write. Now I should really think about packing up, checking out and heading into Lima for lunch before taking my onward flight to Arequipa, the next stop on my journey.
The world around me is about to change. Quite literally, it’s only up from here. BB x
The sun is climbing toward its pinnacle in the enormous Peruvian sky. The UV warnings on the weather apps are off the charts, so I’m going to have to layer up properly with the sun cream before I leave the bus, or I’ll be fried out there. My destination today is Paracas, a coastal resort town some 256km to the south of Lima – more specifically, the Islas Ballestas and their seabird colonies.
First, however – a few observations about Peru. For one thing, my dating apps have exploded. Without even lifting a finger, I’ve got more hits in twenty four hours than I’ve had in four years, and that’s no exaggeration. I wonder what that says – about me and about this country. Is it because the odds of somebody finding me attractive have been boosted by the overwhelming numerical force of some ten million people? Am I simply more interesting to a Latin mindset than a European? Or – dare I say it – is it something more sinister?
Is it because I’m white?
Hear me out. Malinchismo is a concept we study at IB and A Level Spanish – that is, it’s a concept I always try to include in any syllabus I’m teaching that involves Latin America. In short, it’s a form of cultural “cringe”, an embarrassment of one’s own native culture in the presence of an outsider, which often manifests in the invisibilisation or even eradication of the affected community. The term itself is Mexican and comes from the problematic folk anti-heroine La Malinche, a teenage girl who served Hernán Cortés and his conquistadors as translator and thus played a major role in the toppling of the Aztec Empire.
It may be Latin American in concept, but it is a global phenomenon. It explains the demand for skin-whitening creams in Africa and Asia and the dominance of English as a trade language, even in corners of the world that don’t see many Brits. It has even sunk its claws into our own island, with RP and its bratty sibling Estuary English swallowing up most of the old accents and dialects.
Peru, like the US, is a billboard country. Commercial is king. And the face of those enormous commercials is very rarely Peruvian. Giant posters for everything from sportswear and energy drinks to doctors and dental practices all feature the same cast: lithe, beaming individuals, all handsome, all sporty, all white.
I’ll use the dating apps as a counterpoint. There are so many beautiful native faces and body types out there, and that’s just from a glance. But I’ve yet to see any of them represented on the billboards. It’s as though they’re all advertising some supernatural deity, removed from this world, above and beyond the reach of the average Peruvian.
Which, I suppose, isn’t all that far from the truth.
What do we do about it? By the looks of things, not that much. The hostel I’m staying in has a crowd of white tourists (including me), many of them on the next leg of a grand tour of South America. Very few of them speak any Spanish whatsoever.
In the hostel, they talk. Largely about things travelers always talk about – that is, home – and swap stories of nightmare experiences along the road. They talk of the continents they’ve ticked off. They talk of ayahuasca: two guys who can’t have meat or salt or sugar or sex for a month because a shaman put a plant spirit inside of them which – or so they were told – would react most fiercely if they broke their diet pact. Others talk blithely of Iguaçu Falls (“beyond the waterfall there’s not that much else to see”), Rio (“the party scene is decent”) and Patagonia (“it’s actually really expensive and full of couples”).
Most of the travelers I was with this morning have gone. It’s only a handful of stragglers who opted for the Paracas Reserve tour and the Hacienda San José slave tunnels. Everyone else has gone on to Huacachina, an oasis town famous for its sand dunes – which we venerate by driving all over them in petrol-belching dune buggies.
Say what you like, but it’s a strange way to appreciate another country. Imagine if the White Cliffs of Dover were turned into an enormous quad-bike park, charging wealthy Arab and Chinese holidaymakers a handsome sum to tear up one of our most beautiful landscapes. It’s not exactly an awkward comparison.
What saddens me more, I think, is the lack of genuine wonder. Maybe it’s a Western thing to avoid poetic adoration – at least out loud. Maybe we’re just too sanguine. It might come across as “gushing” or insincere. Either way, you hear a lot more about their “trips” than their trips. The whole of South America seems to pass them by in a psychedelic haze.
The whole thing smacks of colonialism. Not the naked, gun-point kind that subjugated the Americas long ago, but a more insidious march of cultural domination. When we holiday abroad and talk about home, and not about the places we see, we build up a temple to the West and its ways that is, quite frankly, underserved. By demanding adrenaline sport holidays and beach or ski resorts, we are only tightening the chokehold that Western culture has over the world. It doesn’t matter that it’s no longer fashionable to abuse the people when we’re quite happy to continue to tear up the land itself. That is colonialism – it just walks, talks and dresses like the very Western liberals who claim to despise it.
Tourism makes up for about 8% of Peru’s GDP. Many Peruvians rely on the tourist industry and the money it brings to make a living. The least we can do is to come here with an open heart and an open mind and tread softly.
This is not our world. We should be gentle in how we handle it. BB x
The Book of Barnabas 